We crossed forests, fields, uphill-downhill for an hour, two hours, and I got more and more aware of how tired I was.
Minimum 7 kg of weight on my back, plus a fully stuffed fanny pack on my waist, a water-bottle, two pairs of socks on my feet (to prevent blisters), two pairs of pants, and multiple top layers as well and the sun had been shining bright and hot for many hours.
Also, no walking sticks, what all the boys had, and I tried to keep up with them under such unfair conditions.
Well, what can I say, I was short of breath and sweating like a pig.
Finally my male companions decided they needed a break too.
It was a great opportunity to rearrange my backpack after stuffing the outer layer of my outfit in and get some water from the well we just found.
Water probably never tasted this good before.
After we finished our energy bars we slowly got up from the ground and continued climbing uphill.
There was still quite a long way to go and we had to hurry if we didn’t want to sleep outdoors on the mountain.
It was more hours and many kilometers later that we stopped again, this time at a building that seemed to be a family house with a small coffee shop.
I ordered tea and so I got a cup of weak coffee, tried to politely point out the mistake, it didn’t matter, so what the heck, coffee it is, even if I knew it wouldn’t agree with my stomach right now, but I wanted a nice warm drink so bad.
I sat outside on the terrace sipping my drink and enjoying the sunshine.
I also took my chance to use a nice indoor restroom, very possibly the last for a long time.
From here on no civilization, no other buildings, just the trees and bushes (I also wouldn’t have minded if it was another week of the month…).
No more opened albergues from here on either, in autumn and winter, so I was told.
Thank God I stuffed my bag with energy bars, but how long would my water last, I didn’t know.
And if I thought the hike was exhausting so far little did I know that the worst part is yet to come.
First we headed up on a very steep slope where it became very obvious for me and the others how out of shape I was.
Finally, we had a nice long walk through a forest, an easier climb that I enjoyed very much.
I collected everything edible from rose hips to blackberries.
That is still my habit that I acquired by going hiking a lot with my family when I was a child.
Finally, we got to a steep part and walking downhill was much easier for me.
What I found weird was that this was way more difficult for Mauricio.
Now he could relate to my struggle and suffering and he offered to lend me one of his walking sticks till I found one for myself.
This made my next uphill climb, that lasted a while, so much more bearable.
At this point Jeremy was slowing down, too, but Mauricio and Manolo regained strength and told us they would go faster and they would see us at the albergue in Roncesvalles.
And if not, then I can keep the walking stick.
The two of us were walking slower, but steadily along.
I temporarily got ahead of Jeremy, but I didn’t want to lose sight of him entirely because I was a bit scared on my own, especially when a group of twisted horned sheep blocked my way suddenly.
I thought safety first, so I slowed down so much that Jeremy could get closer in case I needed help.
But at that point the herd had crossed the road and didn’t care about me at all.
A bit further down mountain ponies were grazing peacefully, one of them I even approached carefully because I really felt the need to take a selfie with it.
This was a very short recess but I couldn’t afford more from my precious time, it was already getting late and still no sign of the Spanish border.
For a long time we were walking on a wide asphalt road, at this point I could barely drag myself along, I encouraged myself with the thought that I might take a break at the next kilometer post.
When I reached it I literally collapsed on the asphalt.
I didn’t even care if the dark night found me here, alone, I was so very tired.
Soon the persistently walking Jeremy got near, I was sure he would pass me but to my surprise he abruptly collapsed on the road too.
After a while we looked at each other and agreed that we should get going.
I offered him an energy bar which he gladly took, and told me I saved his life, because he was planning on buying his food.
He wouldn’t have thought that everything would be closed.
We gathered all our strength and headed out on our quest to find Roncesvalles before it gets dark…
In Munay,
Emese
